Maintenance
of Vinyl, Leather, Plastic,
and Rubber Surfaces
by Prentice St.
Clair
In general, two rules apply
to the maintenance of vinyl, leather, plastic, and rubber
vehicle surfaces: (1) always clean before conditioning
and (2) always condition after cleaning. As always,
there are exceptions to these rules, as we will see
later. The exact procedure that you use will depend
upon many factors including customer requirements, available
chemicals and equipment, and the knowledge and experience
of the operator. The following article will give the
detailer some general information as a foundation upon
which to develop his or her own preferred procedures.
As I always recommend, stay in touch with your industry
by reading trade magazines, attending local and national
seminars and conventions, and remaining in constant
contact with other detailing professionals and industry
suppliers. A professional detailer will investigate
new products and equipment in the pursuit of continuously
improving service to the customer.
Exterior
Tires and trim can be cleaned during the detail prep
wash. I recommend washing and rinsing these dirtier
areas before a final general wash of the painted panels.
Tires and the rubber bumper trim on some older cars
can be cleaned using a heavy-duty all-purpose cleaner
and scrub brush or scrub sponge. This will remove dirt,
brake dust, and oxidized rubber, which is the dark black
substance that will come off during cleaning of these
surfaces. Follow with a thorough rinse. Most other unpainted
trim will be plastic or rubber, and includes decorative
side-panel trim, window seals and trim, and the housings
on many side-view mirrors. If the vehicle is a newer,
well-maintained vehicle, no extra cleaning of these
surfaces is necessary aside from the general wash. If
the car is older or not well-maintained, however, clean
the trim using a scrub sponge or a soft-bristled brush
with a mild to medium-strength all-purpose cleaner.
Be aware that strong or under-diluted cleaners can stain
the painted panels that surround the trim part being
cleaned. A very soft polypropylene brush will be very
effective at cleaning these surfaces without scratching
the bordering painted panels.
There are several dressing formula options for the exterior.
Personal experimentation and consultation with your
supplier(s) will help you determine which to use. For
example, solvent-based dressings will last longer, especially
on rubber surfaces; water-based dressings on the other
trim areas may be perfectly sufficient, especially for
express or frequent detailing. Also, especially for
tires, it is important to determine your customer's
preference--high-gloss, low-gloss, or something that
will not rub off on his/her pants! (Note: a final wipe
of the tires with a a dry cloth usually takes care of
this problem.) Spray dressing on tires and spread with
a damp sponge. Wipe dressing on trim parts with a damp
sponge or foam applicator moistened with dressing. Take
your time and be thorough--sloppy dressing is very noticeable--just
like sloppy house
painting. It is important to dress all rubber and plastic
exterior trim (especially prior to polishing and waxing
painted surfaces), as this adds to the "showroom"
appearance of the vehicle. Don't forget to dress the
wheel wells; an inexpensive or heavily diluted dressing
can be used here.
Interior
Cleaning of leather, vinyl, and plastic surfaces in
the interior of a vehicle always starts with a thorough
vacuum or blow-out (if you have compressed air available)
of the surfaces. Using a vacuum with a duster brush
attachment to clean dash and door panels will lift off
excess dust, especially from vents, making cleaning
easier. Also, it is critical to remove debris from seams
of leather and vinyl seats, as this grit can act as
a grinding agent, reducing the strength of those seams
over time.
Cleaning of plastic surfaces (such as the dash, door
panels, and center console) and vinyl upholstery can
be accomplished with a mild to medium strength all-purpose
cleaner and a soft-bristled polypropylene brush. Dampen
the brush with the cleaner (vice spraying directly onto
the surface) and lightly brush the surfaces. Then wipe
the surface with a clean, dry towel to remove the cleaner
and dirt. A tougher nylon brush can be used on areas
such as arm rests that are sometimes heavily soiled.
If shoe scuffs do not come off with all-purpose cleaners,
use a small amount of methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) poured
on a sponge and gently wipe the scuffs off. Dress the
interior surfaces thoroughly by wiping on the dressing
using a clean sponge or foam applicator dampened with
the dressing. Always use a clean applicator for each
job, as the applicator will pick up any leftover soil
while dressing.
(There are combination cleaner/conditioner formulas
available. These can be very efficient for an express
detailing situation in which the customer is not willing
to pay full price for complete detailing or in frequent
detailing situations in which the surfaces just don't
get dirty enough to justify fully cleaning before conditioning.
Just remember that anytime two chemicals with completely
different functions are combined, the effectiveness
of each chemical is reduced.)
A discussion of leather care could take up this entire
article, so here are some basics that should be followed
up with more extensive research. In general, take your
time, use premium quality chemicals specifically designed
for leather, and charge accordingly. To safely clean
leather, it is easiest to use a product that is designed
specifically for that. The concern with leather cleaning
is that the pH of the cleaner must be such that it does
not remove the leather's natural oils, or the dyes that
are used to color the leather. Heavy stains, especially
those that are oil-based, are impossible to remove without
causing some damage to the leather. Explain this to
the customer who is questioning why a pen mark or other
stain will not come out. Do not use course brushes to
scrub leather. Instead, use a terry-covered sponge or
a hogs/horse-hair brush to agitate the cleaning solution.
Then wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Mist the leather
with a spray bottle containing clean water and wipe
with clean, dry cloth. Then massage in a premium quality
leather conditioner containing natural oils and a UV
screen. (Other than wear and tear due to normal use,
ultraviolet rays are the number one cause of deterioration
of leather.)
In conclusion, remind the customer that regular and
proper care of the vehicle's plastic, vinyl, leather,
and rubber surfaces will not only keep them looking
new, but also extend their life.
Copyright
1999, Prentice St. Clair
First printed in the April 1999 issue of Modern Car
Care
(Volume 2, Number 4)
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