Baffled
Over Car Buffers?
by Prentice St.
Clair
The buffer
is undoubtedly one of the most important tools for the
professional detailer. If you are already a professional
detailer, you probably have at least one type of machine
in your equipment locker. If not, you are fooling yourself
and your customers into thinking that you can get the
job done by hand. In the days when detailing was an
avocation, I swore I would never use a machine and preached
such logic to customers--until I bought and became familiar
with my first machine. Now I cringe when a customer
requests hand wax application because of the extra labor
and inferior results involved.
The goal of this article is to help reduce, through
education, some of the fear associated with making the
leap to machine buffing. This fear is typically a result
of hearing "horror stories" about damage caused
by machine buffing. It is important to understand that
such damage is almost always caused by inexperienced
or inappropriate use of a buffer. Appropriate use of
a buffer comes through experience and education. You
must familiarize yourself, through attendance of professional
seminars, workshops, and trade conventions, regular
reading of industry trade publications, and most importantly,
through experience, with the equipment available. Also,
the combination of equipment, chemicals, and understanding
the paint composition and damage on each vehicle is
critical to achieving the best result.
The First Choice: Pneumatic or Electric
Regardless of what type of buffer you choose to use,
the first choice is how to power the unit. With most
buffers, you can choose between by compressed air (pneumatic)
or electricity. As can be seen in Table 1, there are
several factors to consider when choosing between the
two power sources. Most of these differences result
from the fact that the electric tool is encumbered with
its motor and related components, whereas the pneumatic
machine, supplied by a separate compressed air source,
has none of these components. Thus, the pneumatic machine
is lighter and requires less maintenance. Electric models
are, on the other hand, quieter, and are generally less
expensive. Also, since electric units do not require
another piece of equipment (air compressor) to operate,
they are more portable, and are thus an easy choice
for mobile operators.
Table
1: Pneumatic vs. Electric Power Source for
Polishing Equipment
Characteristic |
Pneumatic |
Electric |
Portability |
•
can you carry the air compressor?!? |
•
unplug and go |
Noise |
•
OK in shop |
•
better in mobile situations |
Weight |
•
the drive source is air--very light!! |
•
contains motor and related components |
Maintenance
Needs |
•
fewer
components |
•
motor and related components |
Speed
Adjustment |
•
simple turn of a knob to control air flow |
•
(although some do have) |
Shock
Hazard |
•
no electricity in work area |
•
not good in wet locations |
Price |
•
generally more expensive |
•
generally less expensive |
Power
Supply |
•
must have separate air compressor unit |
•
just plug it in |
Pneumatic
devices offer better control of speed adjustment (revolutions
per minute) and are not subject to the shock hazard
of combining electricity with wet working conditions.
One note about pneumatic machines: make sure there is
a good match between the amount of pressure your air
compressor is designed to deliver and that required
by the machine to operate properly.
The Second Choice: High-Speed
or Random-Orbital
There are primarily two types of buffers--high-speed
rotary and random-orbital. The high-speed buffer's simple
circular motion, combined with continuous high revolutions
per minute (RPMs), causes friction at the point of contact
with the paint surface, thus creating heat, which slightly
softens the paint. This heating action allows for correction
of extensive paint damage such as heavy oxidation and
deep scratching; it also is one of the reasons why high-speed
buffers can cause paint damage due to
improper use.
The wheel of a random-orbital buffer, on the other hand,
operates with two separate motions: a slow circular
motion combined with an orbital motion. That is, as
the wheel spins, it also orbits slightly off-center
around a central point (sort of like the Earth spins
as it revolves around the sun). This action essentially
imitates hand motion, making the random-orbit buffer
virtually no more dangerous to use than your hands,
yet much faster with increased consistency of results.
There are many differences also in the usage and results
of high-speed rotary versus random-orbital buffers.
As can be seen in Table 2, the primary difference is
that, a high-speed rotary machine, once mastered, will
produce absolutely the best results.
Table 2: Differences Between Technologies Available
for Paint Rejuvenation
Factor |
High-Speed
Rotary |
Random-Orbital |
Manual
(By Hand) |
Ease
of use |
• Time and care needed to do it right |
• Pick it up and go |
•
(I hope this is obvious) |
Likelihood
to cause paint damage |
• Improper use will cause swirls and excessive paint
removal |
• You have to work very hard to damage paint |
• Minimal,
other than streaking |
Results |
• Absolutely the best-- highest gloss and deepest
shine |
• Much better than manual, but cannot compare to high-speed |
• Uneven at best |
Effectiveness
(especially on heavy paint damage) |
• Potentially eliminate all damage |
• Paint looks much better than it did, but some damage
still remains |
• Forget it |
Learning
curve |
• Requires extensive training and/or much experience
to master |
• Requires very little training and experience to
master |
• "Just open
the bottle, pour it on, and get started, big guy!" |
Amount
of chemical required |
•
May require slightly more than orbital, but not
nearly as much as manual |
•
Very little product used (can be 75% less product
than manual) |
• "You better buy some extra, cause you're gonna
need it!" |
Primary
advantage |
• Absolutely
best result, especially on heavily damaged paint |
• Effective
and efficient: easy to use and even application
of smaller amount of product |
• No
equipment investment required |
Primary
disadvantage |
• Higher
potential to cause paint damage; time required to
master |
• Somewhat
limited results (compared to high-speed) |
• It
takes too dang long |
Random-orbital machines, even with the best products
and most experienced technicians, simply cannot produce
the high gloss and deep shine that is achievable with
the high-speed machines. On the other hand, there is
no comparison to the ease
of use of a random-orbital when it comes to application
of final finish products such as waxes or sealants.
Yet, within this last comparison lies another major
difference between the two machines: high-speed buffers
require a great deal more time and experience to master
than do random-orbitals. Most technicians can pick up
and start using a random-orbital for the first time
and quickly get the hang of it. Then it's just a matter
of understanding which chemicals and pads/bonnets to
use to attack specific paint problems. With the high-speed
buffer, on the other hand, using incorrect technique,
incorrect chemicals and pad combinations can quickly
lead to disastrous results.
If your budget requirements force you to make a choice,
the random-orbital unit will cover more situations and
offer greater efficiency. Most customers will be perfectly
happy with the results that a random-orbital machine
can produce. However, for those customers who demand
a perfect finish, a high-speed rotary machine may be
your only choice. If so, charge accordingly--you are
providing the customer with by far the highest quality
finish available and the customer should pay a premium
for this. This discussion points to the fact that many
professional detailers have both a high-speed and random
orbital machine in their equipment cabinet. This allows
you to remove the heavy damage with the high-speed machine
and quickly apply a final finish product with the random-orbital.
If you have the customer base to support using a high-speed
buffer but still have some fear about your ability to
use the machine, by all means, take the plunge! The
best way to learn how to properly use a high-speed buffer
is a combination of education and experience. Your local
distributor may offer hands-on training or there are
many "detailing schools" offered by the equipment
manufacturers. Also, find a detailer in your area who
is experienced in high-speed machine use and ask if
you can watch while he/she buffs a vehicle, perhaps
in exchange for some free labor on that same vehicle.
Once you have learned the standard teachable techniques
and "do's and don'ts," it's time to practice.
For this, you need live vehicles, especially ones that
are not going to lose value if the paint is damaged
by your first tries with a high-speed machine. Suggestions:
body shops sometimes have leftover hoods that they would
just love for you to haul off instead of paying a disposal
fee. There's always that neighbor that has never waxed
his car in 10 years--offer to do the work for free in
exchange for the experimentation with your new machine,
and tell him that even if you make a mistake here and
there, the vehicle will look much better than when you
started. Finally, do some wholesale work at your local
used car lot--you'll actually get paid for your time
and usually used car salespersons are not inclined to
check for high-speed damage; they just want the car
to look great in general.
Other Considerations
Price. As far as price is concerned, the old adage applies:
"you get what you pay for." There are many
machines available and you can pay anywhere from under
$100 for the basic do-it-yourself models to several
hundred dollars for the finest, most durable machines.
The model that is less than $100 will probably fall
apart or otherwise become inoperable after a few commercial
uses. Middle-of-the-road models are probably fine for
most applications, unless you are running machines for
hours on end, day-in-day-out, in which case, the
investment in a more reliable high-end machine is well
justified. Speaking of investment, regardless of what
machine you choose, realize that your investment will
come back to you after the first few uses--through greater
efficiency (decreased labor time), greater effectiveness
(better results), and increased customer satisfaction.
Maintenance. Remember that buffers, especially electric
models, require periodic maintenance. Read the equipment
manual carefully and follow manufacturers recommendations
for maintenance. Don't make the mistake of thinking
that you will save money by neglecting recommended maintenance,
which may lead to unexpected down time due to machines
that fail during a job. Many detailers feel comfortable
doing the maintenance themselves, while others "leave
it to the professionals" by sending the unit
back to the manufacturer for overhauling. Either way,
it is advisable to have a back-up unit available for
such maintenance events or should your primary unit
fail during a job.
Choices among random-orbital polishers. There are several
types of random-orbital units, each with its own advantages
and disadvantages, as can be seen in Table 3. Not too
many years ago, the standard heavy large-wheeled, two-handled
buffer was the only choice. With the advent of new machine
designs, the professional detailer now has several units
from which to choose, based on the specific application.
Smaller, lighter units and even dual-head units are
available. The lighter units may
require more chemical application time to cover the
vehicle, but save on operator fatigue. The larger units
are great for broad panel work, especially in situations
where several steps are required to repair the paint
finish.
Table
3: Advantages and Disadvantages of Various Random-Orbital
Equipment
Type
of Random-Orbital Buffer |
Advantages |
Disadvantages |
Standard
10- 14" |
•
large wheel covers large painted panels quickly
and evenly |
•
heavier than other machines
• large wheel cannot access smaller painted
areas |
Variable
Speed |
•
allows adjustment of speed for use with specific
chemical, pad, and paint damage combinations |
•
smaller wheel (on some models) |
Mini
Orbital Buffer |
•
singles-hand operation
• exceptionally easy to use
• can cover tight areas that are untouchable
with other machines |
•can take longer to cover the entire vehicle, especially
if there is greater paint damage (i.e., more polishing)
required |
Dual-head
Random Orbital Buffer |
•
has capability to cover both large and small areas
with the same tool
• lighter than the standard tool |
•
still a bit heavy |
Pads and chemicals. Finally, but of equal importance,
is the issue of pad composition and appropriate chemical
use. This article could easily turn into a full-length
manual if we discuss all the considerations in the proper
choice and use of pads and chemicals.
You are probably aware of the myriad of pads and bonnets
currently available; and its seems that each month,
manufacturers come out with a new pad design touting
special benefits. What's important to understand is
that each pad has a specific use and a set of consequences
of use. For example, wool pads, regardless of the machine
in use, will scratch the paint surface; they are for
cutting in extreme paint damage situations and their
use must be followed by at least two other polishing
steps with different pads.
Then there is the Pandora's box full of chemicals: Compounds,
polishes, waxes, and sealants, each of which has specific
actions and consequences of use. For example, using
a heavy polish to cut through washing scratches (e.g.,
on a paint surface that has not been detailed for several
years) may require a second step with a mild polish
before final finishing.
Finally, one must understand how the machine type, pad
composition, and chemicals work together. For example,
a medium-grade polish with a wool pad on a high-speed
buffer may work just as well as a strong compound with
a foam pad on an orbital buffer. Moreover, it is important
to recognize the type of paint damage that is to be
repaired, is this information will influence the choice
of machine, pad, and chemical. As with learning to properly
use the machines, the professional detailer must
spend time reading, consulting with manufacturers and
distributors, attending seminars and workshops, experimenting,
and networking with other detailers to learn the "art"
of this aspect of detailing.
Copyright
1999, Prentice St. Clair
First published in the August, 1999 issue of Modern
Car Care
(Volume 2, Number 8)
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